A guide to Ushuaia | Argentina

Ushuaia harbor at sunset

Before we came to Ushuaia, we were told the city is just a gateway to Antarctica and there isn’t much to do around. But the moment our Aerolineas Argentinas flight landed and we saw the towering snow capped mountains and the glistening sea that greeted right outside the airport, we knew Ushuaia was our kind of place.

The bustling waterfront, a wide variety of of eateries, hiking trails that start right from the main street and the wildlife thriving in the nearby Beagle channel meant Ushuaia kept us wrapped around the finger in the one week we were here. Here are some of our favorite things to do along with a complete guide on getting around, the highlights of the city and recommendations on places to stay and eat.

Things to do

Penguin watching on the Magellanic island

Hundred of Magellanic Penguins on Isla Martillo

Penguin watching with pira tours in Ushuaia

Take a penguin tour to the Magellanic island with Pira tours for a lifetime experience. While there are other operators that take you to the island, Pira tour is the only one that allows guests to disembark on the island and walk with the penguins. Summer is the ideal time to see the penguins before they take to the sea and go south to colder waters of the Antarctic.

Sailing in the beagle channel and the light house/wildlife viewing

Seals and comorants in the beagle channel

Spotting whales in the beagle channel

Sail the beagle channel bustling with wild marine life and birds. The entire journey starting from when you leave the boat in Ushuaia is beautiful with the snow capped darwin range on the horizon and the splendid blues of the sea all around. We saw whales, albatross, cinclodes, wide range of birds including the black and white cormorants that look so much like penguins from far, and seals lazing on the tiny island that are scattered in the channel. Another highlight of this journey is the Les Eclaireurs lighthouse that you see in most post card pictures of Ushuaia. The channel is a  perfect natural haven for birdlife and is extremely rich and diverse.

Les Eclaireurs lighthouse in Ushuaia

Tierra del fuego

The Tierra del fuego national park has some of the spectacular natural beauty in southern Argentina and makes for a peaceful escape from Ushuaia. The national park has everything from a stunning coastline along the beagle channel, tall craggy mountains, cascading waterfalls and vibrant lakes. There are many exploring possibilities from taking a short walk or going on multi day hikes with camping gear in tow. During the summer there are regular  buses that depart from near the tourist center in Ushuaia. Do make sure you take a note of the last bus, as finding taxies might not be easy on the way back. It is also possible to take the end of the world train to get to the national park.

Off roading to lake Escondido

This one is for the 4×4 adventure lovers. The lake Escondido can be reached by a full day excursion starting from Ushuaia.You could choose between Tangol or Ushuaia Extreme tours  or drive there yourself if in a well equipped car.  The tours can also be combined with a stop at the Fagnano lakes. No matter how you get there, be prepared for a bumpy but an exhilarating ride through Andean forests, crossing streams and rivers of mud to arrive at the blue Escondido lake.

Train ride to end of the world

Getting to Ushuaia means you have reached the southernmost City and what better to remember than getting that souvenir shot with a sign board claiming the same. Ushuaia is the end of the trans American highway that starts in Alaska and believe it or not there are many people that make this long  journey which takes a year or two. Although, there is a huge sign board in Ushuaia itself, the train ride to the actual end of the world sign is the real deal. The toy train ride that runs on a narrow gauge line is especially great for families with kids. The train chugs along the incredible scenery of tierra del fuego while a narrator goes over a brief tragic history of how it was used in the past to transport prisoners to the forest to gather lumber for winters.

Helicopter tours over the glaciers

Aerial views of the Andes near Ushuaia

Aerial views of the Andes near Ushuaia

There is nothing like seeing the jaw dropping beauty of the landscapes around Ushuaia from a helicopter. The scenic flight goes over the lakes and peaks of the Andes range, the many glaciers and Beagle channel before landing on one of the mountain tops to a bubbling glass of champagne. It is a unique experience even if you need to wait for the weather to clear up for the ride.

Boat to Puerto williams in Chile

While Ushuaia might claim to be the end of the world, Puerto williams on chilean side of the Beagle channel is actually the southernmost town. There are boats that run daily from the harbor. While the town itself is rather small and a bit lackluster, there are many hiking routes that start from here. The 3-4 day Dientes circuit is considered the southernmost hike in the world and no serious hiker would would want to pass on this fame, surely not us.

Best Hikes around Ushuaia

Martial Glacier

Hiking up to Martial glacier in Ushuaia

It is possible to get to the martial glacier, which is just outside the town. Take a short taxi ride(about 200 Argentinian dollars) or the bus that starts at the harbor to get to the start of the trail. There was once a functional chair lift to get to the top, and now the trail follows the similar route up. Also make sure you take the short detour towards `Del Filo`  for a breathtaking view of Ushuaia, the Beagle channel and the mountain ranges in Chile.

Laguna Esmeralda

Hike to Laguna Esmeralda in Ushuaia

True to its name the lake is a stunning shade of and is accessible by a two hour long trail that goes through thick birch trees, unique beaver dams before opening up to a wide meadow braided by the river. It was an overcast day when we went there but the views were still excellent. Some sections can get super muddy if it rained a few days before, have proper hiking boots or better yet use gum boots.

Where to eat

As a gateway to the Antarctica, Ushuaia gets visitors from across the world and has a bustling international food scene to pamper travelers before they leave for the choppy waters of Antarctica or after days at the sea. For typical Argentine try the empanadas, deep-fried or baked savouries or Asado, barbecued grilled meat. For something healthier one can’t go wrong with the quinoa salads.

Chocotorta with dulce-de-leche

Ramos Generales is ideal for traditional dining in a century old restaurant whose decor is more fitting to be in a museum. With shelves lined by antique items sourced from old boats, a friendly service, the delicious soups, empanadas and pastries one is bound to stay longer than planned.

Empanadas are a must try in Argentina

Tante Sara is an ideal spot to stock up on baked goodies. We got ourselves sandwiches for the hike to laguna Esmeralda. They are also perfect for a quick bite to take away with. They also have a restaurant on the main street that is hard to miss.

Dulce de leche an absolute must in Argentina

Don’t forget to try out some Argentinean wines, they are one of the finest in south america.

Getting there

Flight

Most common way to arrive in Ushuaia would be a flight from Buenos Aires. You should note that there is no public transport from the airport to the center and the most viable option is to hire a taxi or arrange one from the hotel you would be  staying.

Boat

Although uncommon, it is also possible to arrive from the chilean side by a boat. Most of the ferry crossings are seasonal and you should check the websites for a precise schedule. Alternatively, you could walk in to one of the ticket booths by the Ushuaia harbor.

Where to stay

We stayed in the Arakur, perched high on a mountain top and away from the harbor. It had the most gorgeous outdoor pool overlooking Beagle channel. The rooms were luxurious and had great views of the mountains and the channel. The breakfast selection is huge with an assortment of international and Argentinean specialities. Stay here for luxury and tranquility.

arakur, ushuaia resort and spa

Hope that was helpful, have you been to Ushuaia? Or are you headed there soon? write to us if you found this guide helpful.

 

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